Turkey. Ankara and Background

The Courtyard at Attaturk's Tomb in Ankara

Though not by any standard a Middle Eastern Country, Turkey plays in important role in my geographical region.  Turkey's population is over 90% Muslim.  Most people of the region spoke Arabic until the creation of modern Turkey after the defeat of the Ottoman Empire and subsequent events after WWI.  Turk's have an unassailable love and reverence for their founder Kemal Attaturk, who's legend cannot be overstated.  A singular historical figure, perhaps no other individual is more closely associated with the character of their country.  Attaturk made his military reputation repelling an Allied Invasion of the Dardanneles in WWI, when he disobeyed his higher command and maneuvered his battalion to a where he predicted the the Allied Forces would come ashore.  In 1923 Turkey became a secular republic with Attaturk as its first president and it capital moved from Istanbul to the remote plains town of Ankara.

Ankara was our first stop on our Turkey, our plan was to fly from Kuwait to Ankara via Istanbul, rent a car and make our way back West to Istanbul where we would drop the car at the airport and spend the next 5 nights in the city.  Our trip began auspiciously as we experienced a weather delay due to fog getting out of Kuwait, the first fog we've seen in our 4 months of living there.  Our original flight to the secondary airport in Istanbul was cancelled and we were placed on the flight going to the main Istanbul airport, Attaturk.  When we arrived, we had no idea as to the fate or our baggage.   The ticket agents were so helpful as to point out that in fact we weren't supposed to be in that particular airport...really?  Thanks.  Fortunately they booked us on the next flight into Ankara.

Unfortunately, our baggage didn't make it.  So, we filled out all of the paperwork, picked up our rental car and headed out into the rain.  After a few wrong turns, and about an hour in traffic, we finally pulled into our hotel.
The next day I had meetings for the better part of the day, where I was briefed on Turkey's economic situation (8-9% Growth last year), their internal politics (The current prime minister is pushing for constitutional reforms intended to strengthen the position of President, and decreasing the importance of his current position.  Many surmise that he is planning to pull a Putin and slide over into the presidency).  I learned about Turkey's relationship with the United States.  Turkey is the only country with a significant U.S. Military presence that we have never conquered nor rescued. Also, they consider what we did in Iraq the equivalent of us dropping the worlds largest dirty diaper in there back yard.  Additionally we learned about Turkey's bid to join the EU, (a lot of work to do, Austria, which repelled two Ottoman invasions, considers Turkey's EU bid just the latest attempt to invade), there relationship with Israel (strained officially, but still humming along economically).

Turkey straddles the line between Asia and Europe, and if you ask a Turk if they consider themselves Asian or European, they will undoubtedly tell you that they are neither, they are Turkish.

Although Ankara is by any measure a huge city (of all US Cities, only NYC has a larger population), unfortunately, our schedule only allowed us to spend a quick morning prior to heading to Cappadocia.  We drove over to Attaturk's tomb and museum which tells the story of his life, along with the story of the great battle of Gallipoli in WWI.  It put into perspective for us, his importance and the central role he plays in the psyche of the country.  I think if you rolled Washington, Lincoln, and a few Kennedys, MLK and Eisenhower into one individual, you would be on the right track.

Next, Cappdocia, land of Fairy Chimneys, hidden churches and hundreds of hot air balloons.

Bethlehem

We have been in Turkey now for 10 days and the energy it takes to blog has not been in our reserves.  We get to our next destination and Anne goes to bed. Tim and I say, we really should blog and then fall asleep.  We have stayed in the Western 1/3 of Turkey and yet have traveled 1500 miles.  It has been a great trip but our amount of downtime has dwindled. 

Anyway, it's 5am and I'm the only one awake so I figure I should blog! 

We have made it up to Bethlehem. How majestic and surreal. The Church of the Nativity was packed full of people. After driving in a big circle around Bethlehem trying to get a parking spot, Tim rolled down his window right in front of the church and speaking Arabic to the local gentlemen sitting watching the westerners file into the church asked, "can I park here?" The welcome shock of Arabic by a white non Arab gave us VIP parking right in front of the church. We have learned to build our Vitamin W!  This is Wasta, a form or favoritism built on relationships.  There is no equality or waiting your turn in the Middle East, you need to build your Wasta. Anne is an essential part of our Wasta building. My being Pregnant also helps. But Tim's bright blue eyes and eager smile while speaking Arabic well usually does the trick. 

So we parked right out in front and by the time we got to the entrance we heard that the wait was over 2 hours to get in.  We looked at each other.... Are we doing this?  Suddenly a tour angel appeared. 

"Behold,  Western looking Arabic speaking, adorable child and pregnant Mary" he said.

"I bring you glad tidings. I am an official tour guide, Mohamed. If you come with me you will not wait in line!"

Ok, we are seasoned enough to know how this goes... Tim's asks how much it will cost us? He said $150 Shekels.  We said yes.  So we marched right in. I had a bit of guilt. But, if Anne had to wait in line for 2 hours and it wasn't Cars Ride at Disneyland, we would not make it. 

The trick is that these tour guides take their small groups through the exits. So as the huge group files out of the different areas the small groups trickle in before the next big group. It's totally chaotic and we got shoved a lot. But, no wait. 

So the first place we went was the stable area in the basement. There is a beautiful star where Mary gave birth. Then is the Manger area.  It is so beautiful and sacred despite the pushing crowd.  

From there we saw the Orthodox Church, and the Roman Catholic Church. Then we left and went to the Christmas House to buy olive wood gifts.  This is where we saw the nativity scene with the wall between the Manger and the Persian Kings. 

Afterwards we walked up to the Milk Grotto where the stone in this church has turned to white where Mary nursed Jesus.  It was so powerful to see Anne light up here. She wanted to rub me with the white powder, as the story goes, the powder gives healing to women and children and well wishes to expectant mothers.  I was so emotional here. I turned to Tim who put white powder on my face and kissed me.  There are so many people in our lives who need healing and are praying for healthy babies to come to them. We feel so grateful and realize how hard it is for many many couples.  

While we were there we got packets of the Milk powder to give to  the people we are praying for. I can say that it has had an effect on our lives already. Even if it is merely the attention paid, the consciousness we have now, payers have been answered for at least one family in our lives!  Baby Veronica is home after 2 months in and out of the hospital. 

So, in the end. Bethlehem was magical and crowded - and heart wrenching to have to deal with the Palestinian/Israeli conflict. But it was so worth it. 

Now as Anne grows up she can remember what Bethlehem looks like and she can create a story that mixes the reality of the place with the mystical Christmas story as we decorate our house and sing Christmas Carols over the minarets blasting a call to prayer. 

god is god.  We are all the same. 

Since we are in Turkey and have been thinking so much about Sufism, I leave you this from Rumi

Listen with ears of tolerance! See through the eyes of compassion! Speak with the language of love.